The Land of Limoncello! After a failed attempt to go to Pompei in the morning, we decided to hit up the place from memories long past. Though seven years can change many things, parts feel like time hasn't touched them at all. Cliff clutching houses painted in colors of sunsets overlooking the Bay of Naples has such a magical feeling to it. I climbed down the steep side and made my way to the ocean that was calling me. Volcanic sand, black and soft, meets the warm water of the Bay. Scenes of locals splashing around enjoying the last days of their summer vacation clash with scenes of an earlier time when my Mom and I laid on the very same beach laughing and commenting on a different scene with locals...Tearing myself away from times long gone, I bury my feet in the sand and enjoy the warm breeze on my skin. When it was time for food, il Giardiniello was beyond fitting. A Ma and Pa run restaurant where you are greeted by an old Italian man and an older woman who is just charming as she offers us a seat in the garden. Surrounded by greenery and grape vines, we had a two hour lunch with local specialities of gnocchi alla sorrentina and cannelloni alla sorrentina, bruschetta, olives, and a liter of local red wine. Then the old man persuaded us to have some limoncello...not that it took much persuading! Delightfully stuffed and starting to feel a carb coma coming on, I passed out on the train back to Naples.
The Land of Ruins! Pompei was just as I remembered it. Grand mosaics, gardens of the richest houses, and volcanic ash and pyroplastic flow could not ruin the incredible frescoes in practically every house. Even though they lived two thousand years ago, they still had the same wants and needs as we do now. Beware of Dog warnings, bread shops, and the need for a place to watch shows and games. Women wanted gardens and perfume shops and men wanted their brothels. Yes, it' true. You can even go into the old building. The frescoes on the wall are just as clear and vibrant as they were years and years ago. It went like this-you go in and choose the position you'd like to do it in (this is what the frescoes show-the differents positions) and then choose the name of the lady you'd like to do it with because their names were inscribed on the wall. She would then lead you into her cubicle room area and you would get serviced on the bed and pillow made of rock. What we do for pleasure!
The Land of Pizza! Naples is the dirty city everyone and every guidebook says that it is, but I feel like it is the Italy we all want to come visit. Laundry being dried on lines in alleyways and women leaning out of cars, raising their hands and swearing in Italian at the other drivers. Grow men riding vespas in pastel colors with their little dogs between their feet looking out at the things going by. Grand cathedrals around every corner with breathtaking insides and religious shrines to the Virgin Mary and various saints down even the most dogy streets. So, if you can get over being a prissy priss, this is the Italy you are looking for. And , of course, if you're looking for the best pizza, it is here also. L'Antica Pizza Da Michele has the best in town. A hole in the wall place but constantly packed with locals and tourists alike, it serves only two kinds of pizza-marinara and margherita. So, for 7€ I got a massive double mozzarella pizza with an Italian beer called Nastro Azzurro. Just the way to experience Napoli and the perfect way to end this bit of the trip.
Off to Venezia!
No comments:
Post a Comment